- Antares Auto-Tune Pro (Paid) Auto-Tune is the original pitch correction software. It's so popular that.
- 8/10 (695 votes) - Download Antares Auto-Tune Free. Antares Auto-Tune is the ultimate professional tool to be able to solve tone problems during the recording. Download Antares Auto-Tune for your PC. When it comes to recording a song you can encounter certain problems with the tone and the tempo.
TRM v0.8.1 added basic support for Big Navi cards (Navi21). This section will: be expanded as we do more work for this gpu generation. For now, the suggested: tuning process is quite simple: 1) Big Navis should run in A-mode (it's chosen by default). While the B-mode is: available, the value of the 128MB cache is degraded with a larger memory.
What is Auto tune, a product or a process? At Fuel Moto we throw around the term Auto tune quite frequently, so let me do my best to explain what it is, and what it does. This document is intended to cover the basics, and is by no means a comprehensive guide to EFI tuning, systems, or best practices. How to scan on imac.
A little EFI 101 may be beneficial to lay the ground work and better your understanding of all that's going on in this sometimes confusing world of EFI tuning.
In the world off electronic engine management / EFI, most modern systems employ closed loop feedback for fuel control. These systems are often based around narrow band o2 sensors that provide feedback to the ECM in regards to how rich or lean the vehicle is running. The ECM uses it's calibration (tune) to determine if it should maintain closed loop fuel control, and also references a target Air-to-Fuel Ratio (herein AFR) value during certain conditions (load vs. rpm). If there's error between what the ECM is asking for and what the OEM narrow band sensor measures, then a correction is made to adjust the lean or rich condition. This sounds great, and it is, but here's the kicker…….narrow band sensors are ONLY accurate at, or near, the stoichiometric value of the fuel being used, which is 14.7:1 for gasoline. This value is where complete combustion would occur, if it could occur, and is where you would achieve the best fuel efficiency. This value, however, is NOT ideal for all operating conditions of a Harley-Davidson motorcycle, or any engine for that matter. Achieving a balance of fuel economy and best power / torque is the goal, and we've developed some handy tools to take the mystery out of tuning a fuel injected H-D motorcycle.
A typical Harley-Davidson ECM calibration has areas of closed loop and open loop. In other words, there are areas where it can 'see' the AFR and other areas where it can not. When you're in a range that requires precise measurement, but is outside the reliable window of a narrow band sensors operation (considered 14.3 -15.2 AFR), then a tuner / EFI specialist must rely on wide band O2 sensor data. Since the ECM does not typically use or support wide band O2 sensors, a tuner must monitor / log the AFR values generated from a wide band O2 controller (like Dynojets' Auto tune wide band O2 sensor control module). The wide band O2 sensor values provide tuners or electronic tuning devices with data with which to make decisions on how they'll address fueling in the open loop regions of the tune (those regions where the ECM has no idea what the AFR really is). In either case, if the target AFR from the calibration is NOT achieved, the error must fixed by measurements acquired from the stock O2 sensors or aftermarket wide band sensors. In the case of a Harley engine management system, we fix the error by adjusting the VE (volumetric efficiency tables).
Question: What does Dynojet offer to help me tune my bike? How to download snapchat on windows.
Answer: Auto tune.
As it pertains to the Power Vision, Auto tune is both a product and a process. There are two different versions that you can use while tuning a bike:
- Auto tune Basic
- Free and requires no additional parts for bikes that have OEM closed loop fuel control and O2 sensors
- Auto tune Pro
- Not free and requires the use of our Auto tune wide band O2 control module that has dual wide band O2 sensors
The Power Vision can provide meaningful tuning feedback from EITHER the OEM narrow band O2 sensors AND / OR from the Auto tune module's wide band O2 sensors……we call this Auto tune Basic or Pro respectively.
So, with Auto tune Basic and without any additional modules (it's simply a process) you could use the Power Vision to take advantage of what the ECM 'sees' from its OEM narrow band O2 sensors and help it achieve the target AFR. Not only can it fix the normal closed loop range, but the Auto tune Basic will actually temporarily extend the closed loop range to gain insight on the actual AFR in areas where it's normally not allowed (high load / high rpm). For the record >>At high load, high RPM ranges this 'temporary situation' is not ideal, and this is where it's advantageous to use Auto tune Pro. We offer Auto tune Basic because essentially it's free for the user, and it's offered by the competition (V-Tune / Smart Tune ) as a band-aid approach to professional tuning. This method works great in those areas where it makes sense to run in a lean state: idle, light load, and cruise conditions. So, in any case, now the Power Vision can 'see' what the ECM is commanding for AFR AND it can see what the actual AFR is in the exhaust. Armed with this information and other data from the H-D OEM databus, the Power Vision can automatically fix the deviation between the target AFR and actual AFR by adjusting the VE tables. The data is learned in real time, but processing the data and adjusting the tune is done in an 'offline state' (key on / engine off). In the end, the Power Vision can process the data, correct the tune, and then reflash the corrected tune into the ECM.
If you want to tune like a pro and get serious about developing a safe, efficient, and powerful tune, then you needAuto tune Pro. I'll start by making this statement, 'Any aftermarket EFI tuning system that does NOT use wide band O2 sensors inherently can NOT give you real time, valuable insight as to how rich or lean the bike is running in areas outside of the OEM closed loop range.' Auto tune Pro is a process AND requires a product; that being the Auto tune wide band control module. The Auto tune module uses wide band O2 sensors in order to measure the actual AFR in the exhaust, and these sensors can accurately sample AFR values from 10.0:1 to 18.0:1 (remember, narrow band O2 sensors are only accurate from 14.3 – 15.2 AFR). When the Auto tune module wide band O2 sensors are installed in the exhaust and you've selected Auto tune Pro in the Power Vision, you're on your way to a complete, refined, and powerful tune. The Power Vision, when running in Auto tune Pro mode, will actually temporarily set up your tune just like a professional tuner and datalog all required channels WITHOUT using a computer. Just like Auto tune Basic, the entire process is attempting to correct the error from what's commanded in the ECM defined as the target AFR, and the AFR that's actually measured in the exhaust. Armed with this information and other data from the H-D OEM databus, the Power Vision can fix the deviation between the target AFR and actual AFR by adjusting the VE tables. The data is learned in real time, but processing the data and adjusting the tune is done in an 'offline state' (key on / engine off).
Neither Auto tune Basic nor Auto tune Pro require that you interface with a computer when using this feature. Power Vision sets up the tune, monitors and logs the data, and then corrects the tune to ensure what you ask for (in the AFR table) is what you get. You essentially have a full time professional tuner inside your Power Vision with the Auto tune feature.
So, how do you know if your bike can be fitted with an Auto tune wide band O2 controller and the included 18mm wide band O2 sensors that are required for the Auto tune Pro feature?
- On bikes that didn't have factory closed loop fuel control / O2 sensors, you are left no choice but to weld 18mm O2 bungs into your exhaust OR buy an aftermarket exhaust system that had 18mm O2 bungs
- On bikes that had factory closed loop fuel control / 18mm narrow band O2 sensors, you can simply remove them and install the 18mm wide band O2 sensors. This requires that you temporarily (or permanently) disable closed loop…….or….if you wanted to retain the OEM narrow band O2 sensors / closed loop fuel control AND install the wide band O2 sensors then they'd have to weld in bungs to their exhaust to accommodate the wide band O2 sensors.
- If the bike has factory 12mm O2 sensors, and the guy wants to retain his stock exhaust, then there is no choice but to have 18mm O2 bungs welded into the exhaust.
- On bikes with OEM 12mm narrow band O2 sensors, you could remove them and opt for an aftermarket exhaust that had 18mm O2 sensor bungs. This will require that you disable closed loop. If you wanted to retain the OEM narrow band 12mm O2 sensors / closed loop fuel control AND install the wide band 18mm O2 sensors, then you should look for aftermarket pipes that retain the factory 12mm O2 sensors AND had provisions for the wide band 18mm O2 sensors.
Note >> In 2010 Harley introduced the small 12mm O2 narrow band sensor on the Touring Models, and that has continued to be the case through the current model year for the Touring Model. In 2012, Harley decided to use the small 12mm narrow band O2 sensors on Dyna, Softail, and V-rod as well. Sportsters continue to use larger 18mm narrow band O2 sensors.
Note>> Not all aftermarket Exhaust systems have the needed 18mm bungs, it is best to check with the manufacture of the exhaust system.
Why process a whole vocal track when there is only one note that is out of tune? Sometimes surgical precision can be better than a brute force strike.
As you know, Auto-Tune is a wonderful aid in correcting the pitch of a slightly out of tune singer. It is also used as an effect in its own right, but for today I am only interested in correcting pitch.
Often Auto-Tune is treated with a degree of disrespect by people who think that singers ought to be able to damn well sing in tune. Well people can think what they like. All I know is that Auto-Tune can often improve a vocal significantly. And since we live in an era where Auto-Tune is routinely used in professional production, then everyone else needs to use it to keep up. Unless you're working with a singer who genuinely sounds better without Auto-Tune, which many do, in which case enjoy the experience (while it lasts).
What is often not properly understood is that for Auto-Tune to work, the singer has to hit notes precisely within half a semitone. For instance if the note required is E and the singer veers more than half a semitone sharp, then Auto-Tune will think that he or she was aiming for an F and 'correct' the note to F. Setting a key rather than using the default chromatic setting will help, because this will eliminate any notes that are not in that key. So for instance in the key of C major, if the singer intends a D, he or she has almost a whole semitone of leeway either up or down and Auto-Tune will still correct to a D. But this doesn't work for an E that is too sharp, an F that is too flat, a B that is too sharp, or a C that is too flat. This is because between E and F, and B and C - all of which are notes in the key of C major, there is only a semitone gap.
OK that's enough reading for now. Let's hear some audio..
Auto Tune 8 Free
Clearly we are not dealing with the best singer in the world, and by his own admission! But it doesn't sound all that much out of tune, so what is the problem?
Well if you listen closely to the 'my' that starts the second line, it's dodgy. Definitely dodgy. It's supposed to be an A, the same as the next word 'audience', but it is definitely on the sharp side of the intended note. (It perhaps isn't the only problem here, but it's the issue I'm going to focus on today.)
So let's Auto-Tune it! I'll open up Auto-Tune and let it do its stuff using the default settings. The only thing I've changed is the Input Type to Alto/Tenor rather than the default Soprano. (You can click the image for a larger version.)
While the other notes are now more precisely on pitch, the problem note hasn't changed at all! This is because Auto-Tune is set to a chromatic scale (in which the key doesn't matter in equal temperament tuning) and it thinks the offending note is meant to be A#.
Auto Tune 8 Cracked
Fortunately the solution to this particular problem is simple - set the key to A major, which is the key of the song. In this key A# doesn't exist, so as long as the singer doesn't stray too far towards B, then Auto-Tune should pull the note down to A.
So problem solved! That was easy. But..
Auto Tune 8.1 Free
Solving one problem creates another
This is a simple song and the simple solution provided by Auto-Tune is probably fine as it is. But there are further points to consider.
The first important point is that apart from the one problem note, the vocal isn't all that bad. So why correct all of the other notes when they don't need correcting? It's only going to take the life and humanity out of the performance and make it sound more like a machine.
The second point is that although this song is simple, other songs are not. If there are any changes of key then Auto-Tune will correct to the wrong key after the change. You would have to automate the key changes in Auto-Tune. Automating key changes is easy enough with a little patience. But what if the song is more chromatic? Or - heaven help us - in a mode other than the common major and minor or any of the other scales Auto-Tunes provides? Or what if it is in the harmonic minor, which my version of Auto-Tune doesn't have? (The harmonic minor scale of A has a G#, which Auto-Tune's A harmonic minor doesn't.) Or what if the song uses the melodic minor where in the key of A there is a G# on the way up and G-natural on the way down?
I think you will see that it often isn't possible just to open up Auto-Tune and expect everything to be fixed just like that. And in this case there is only one note that is a problem.
So..
Just fix the one problem note
If just one note is the problem, then just fix that one note. The problem can be solved without affecting anything else. One way to do this would be to automate the bypass button. That is a perfectly viable option that you're welcome to use. But there is another interesting way to do it, which really does only affect the one problem note, and doesn't consume system resources once done.
How To Use Auto-tune 8.1
Let's focus in on the one note that is the problem. For context I have included the whole line. I've also soloed the track rather than use the source file so that it sounds the same as it does in the song. You will hear a couple of bumps in the audio which are probably faint mic pops, but this take was chosen for the performance ahead of small technical issues that are not heard in the mix.
Listening to this on its own it doesn't sound too bad. But I can assure you that when you've listened to this song enough times, that problem note is definitely closer to an A# than it is to A.
What I am going to do here is process the audio in the track. Pro Tools has an 'AudioSuite' feature that makes this kind of processing easy. Other DAWs can do the same through 'bounce in place' and similar features. Or you can just bounce and re-import, which any DAW can do. I'm going to process this much of the audio, which includes the problem note and the first syllable of 'audience'..
Here is the Auto-Tune window..
What you will notice if you look in the central area is that I have removed some notes. These are notes that Auto-Tune will now not retune to. So whatever I put in with these settings it will never retune to any of the highlighted notes. I could have just removed A#, but often when I use this method I just want to kill everything but the required note just to be sure. Once these settings are in place, I can audition with the speaker icon in the bottom left, then render the result back into the track.
So here we can see the Auto-Tuned section to the left, the original audio to the right. It sounds like this..
Here is the Auto-Tune window..
What you will notice if you look in the central area is that I have removed some notes. These are notes that Auto-Tune will now not retune to. So whatever I put in with these settings it will never retune to any of the highlighted notes. I could have just removed A#, but often when I use this method I just want to kill everything but the required note just to be sure. Once these settings are in place, I can audition with the speaker icon in the bottom left, then render the result back into the track.
So here we can see the Auto-Tuned section to the left, the original audio to the right. It sounds like this..
Oddly enough in this example the click I expected at the edit isn't too bad and is not much worse than the other bumps I mentioned earlier. But normally the click is very clearly audible and you should expect it. That's why I processed more of the audio than I needed to correct. What I can do now is drag back the edit so that the corrected version is only heard when it is needed, on 'my'. I've put in a very short crossfade between the sections.
To my mind this now completely fixes the problem. I've listened to the track many times since and it no longer annoys me.
This technique of processing the audio in the track is very useful for short one-off problems. The trick is always to process a wider area then you need, then you can pull back the start and end points and crossfade in and out. And once the processing is done, you don't need the plug-in to be running any more so you're not consuming system resources unnecessarily.
Summary
When there is a short-duration problem in a track, it may be more practical to fix it in place, rather than have a plug-in running all the way through the session. The results can be more precise and 'surgical', curing the problem without affecting anything else.
Like, follow, and comment on this article at Facebook, Twitter, Reddit, Instagram or the social network of your choice.
